This trip was much needed because the last year I have worked non stop plus my role
was under threat as the contract with our client changed. This was all sorted in
the end and now it is me time.
So here goes.
Initially I wanted to go alone but the missus put on a sorry face and I relented.
Our leave was booked, destination picked and routes planned.The weather
forecast didn't look good for the latter part of the week but we set off on high
spirits Friday afternoon, partly due to the unseasonable warm weather.
The first stop was Ashford for the night. Riding over the QE11 bridge at night is some sight
to savour. Next day would be the crossing. We met a couple on the train, John and Tracy who advised us
of a lovely riders stay over in Bad Bertrich called Pension Lindental. A few threads
on here mentions them so we will have to go and see for ourselves in the future.
The conversation actually started by John when I overheard him mentioning a knob.
The bike's I mean, bit that adjust the screen as he is on a GSA TC.
Off the train and it is then that the holiday feeling really sets in. Motorway to
Cambrai and a stop for lunch before tolerating the heat to our overnight stay near
St Dizier.
A camp site called La Presquile de Champaubert. Pleasant place with a good
view over the lake. Lac Der-Chanteqoc is the largest man made lake in Western Europe.
The restaurant is pleasant, food is good but the ablution facilities could be better.
None the less a view of the stars and listening to the birds and frogs before drifting
off to a good snooze. Wiping dead bugs from the wind shield is tomorrows problem.
Day 2 and still blessed with fine weather we now crossed the area of France were the
agriculture starts to give way to cattle farming with a suitable change in scenery.
We stopped at the edge of a quiet little town were they have tables and benches for a
picnic. We enjoyed our combined breakfast and lunch whilst I kept an eye on a falcon
chasing a fowl with the fowl making a low level escape down the road, literally like a
Blackburn Buccaneer. Excellent. I particularly enjoyed the view across the multitude
of yellow rapeseed squares amongst the green grass.
Soon we will be entering the Morvan region. Now having been here before I recommend
that bikers spend some time exploring this place. From Saulieu we followed a very twisty
bendy type of road. On this twisty bendy road there is a sign to warn you of the twisty
bits and then it gets even more bendy and twisty. Lovely on a GSA. From Saulieu follow
the D977BIS, then the D37 to Château Chinon, D978 to D27 that takes you to Luzy.
You won't regret it unless you ran out of talent. Also a good place to practise your bend
assessment and to scrape the foot pegs or centre stand as you prefer.
Since this was a Sunday most of France were shut. A quick refuel in Roanne and only a
short hop to the camp site or so we thought. Road closure due to a bicycle race, bollocks.
Tried the detour but decided bugger this and pressed pass the sign only to be stopped
further on by the marshals. After lots of arm weaving combined with French, broken English
and Afrikaans I understood that they said to follow the bicycle riders and then on to Cordelle.
I must say it was quite a sight following these spandex clad lads with the missus happily
snapping pics from the back. We turned the corner and there was the finish line.
A bit uphill and by now you could point out the weaklings. We crossed the line and
thankfully not in last place with some curious onlookers. The evenings accommodation
was Flower Camping de Mars which overlooks the Loire valley. A bit of a single track
to get there with a steep gradient but it is lovely. Decently equipped but not 4 star
none the less adequate for our needs. Very rural and you can hear the birds signing
from across the valley.
A bit of rain during the night and we woke to much cooler morning. First stop was the
Château de la Roche for a few pics. Basically a Château build in the middle of the river on a rock.
A quick blast on the motorway to take us to Thiers and this is were you start to climb the
Massive Central. Thiers is conveniently located to buy supplies for the day and we set off
on the D906 to find a picnic spot. What a road this is from Courpiere to Ambert. Also a
decent picnic spot with good coverage for the compulsory liquid relieve, next to an old railway line.
Another fantastic road is the D19 from Le Chaise-Dieu to Brioude. Good road surface and good views.
Something I really struggled with is to watch the road and have a quick look around to take
in the views. South of Brioude the route lead us on to the D585. Itself a good place to spend
time on a motorcycle but this day we would encounter high winds and some really cold weather.
Not surprisingly as the altitude according Mr Garmin put us between 3500 to 4200ft before
we joined the N88 from Le Puy to Mende. By now rain has fallen here and there, the roads
were wet and you could see only to the nearest cloud. The missus was cold and we knew that
camping would be out of the question. First hotel that looked it had parking was the
Hotel Urbain V. Conveniently situated next to an Intermarche and in the town centre. We could
have done better as accommodation was basic for the price we paid but miles better than the tent
for the night. A recommended restaurant is the Drakker next to the Mende Cathedral. We spotted
some blokes who looked like they could handle a motorcycle. No surprise then that the next weekend
Mende would host some AMV enduro like competition.
We woke to a day we have been looking forward to. A day in the Tarn Gorge. As it has been raining
the night before things were a bit damp but the sun soon dried the roads.
A quick stop just past the turn off at an Intermarche, you see a pattern developing here, to
stock up on the daily supplies and another picnic in a sunny spot just into the gorge.
Breathtakingly beautiful if two words can describe the view. The river was in flood, basically
all the rivers were in flood and so the roar of the brown waters can be heard as all along
the gorge as it tumbles over the rocks.
So far so good and at La Melene we turn off to cross the bridge and up that zig-zag road
that is just wide enough for a car and bike. This takes you to a junction with the D986
from Sainte-Enimie which in itself is a fantastic fast flowing road.
Not far from the junction we follow the sign to Aven Armand to visit a cave full of spectacular stalactites
and stalagmites. Some of these are like 10 meters tall.
The tallest Stalagmite
The Frenchies have done a good job with the lighting effects which adds to the atmosphere
of the place. Difficult to capture on film. It is beautiful and big enough to house the Notre Dam.
The only downside for us was the inability to understand French otherwise spectacular.
From there the road leads to Meyrueis and we stick with the river to Millau and then another river,
the La Dourbie, that takes us the next camping spot at Le Val de Cantobre. 4 star place run by RCN.
We book ourselves into a mobile home which proved to be the right decision the next day.
Previously I asked about Cirque de Navacelles on UKGSer and today we are going there. Not helping the
day is wonky eye from a UFO in the helmet the day before.
Good road to there and a stop to look over the phenomenon that is unique to this part of France.
Narrow road down to the village and you have to keep an eye out for the campervans coming the
other way. Even at the top we could hear the waterfall but now that we are in the village itself
the noise is very loud.
Hardly anybody there except for the visitors and walkers passing through. Out and up the other side
where we stop to look back at it from the southern side. The plan is to go to Mount Aigoual from here.
A detour because of Route Barrie but we made it to the start of the climb up there. When I read up on
this place a good indication to me should have been the ski resort and the fact that it rains here
on average for over 200 days a year. Stupid is as stupid does so we pass through the first layer of
cloud only to see a second above the mountain.
The shop at the weather station was deserted and rightly so for it is freezing cold at over 4700ft. A quick
hot chocolate and we emerge from the shop to encounter a white out if it can be called that.
In high spirits as the missus demonstrates.
r
And it drizzled constantly. Was it a dry sunny day then the road back to the camp site would have
been a blast. We got soaked regardless of the finest Goretex shell by that constant rain and no
quick road back plus we had to top up on daily supplies so a round trip to Millau seemed in order.
The night was spend eating and drying the clothes.
Thursday and it is time to start making our way back. This is when I start to feel an anxiousness
in me. I want to stay and visit more places but as most humans on earth I am a slave.
Millau, Montjaux with a spectacular view south to the bridge, D993 a must to ride to Pont-de-Salars,
D911 and turn off heading North to Rodez. Into the town and stop at the Church right at the top.
It is red and you can see it for miles. The coffee shop on the corner by the bike parking is good and
we warm up with some cake and hot drinks.
From Rodex head North and take the D901. Stop at Salles-la-Source for a photo
opportunity at the waterfall right in the middle of the town. You can't miss it.
A dragon and a night in the foreground.
Downstream from the bridge.
From here follow the D901 all along the river. It is a very, very good road. Somewhere along
the road the river turns red and it is the reason for seldom sight at the confluence with the Lot.
Turn right and follow the river to Flagnac. Flagnac to Maurs, Maurs to D617, D961 over the hills to join the D51 to
Le Rouget, through the town and take the shortcut D7 to the D120 to Argentat. All proper GS roads.
By that I mean bikes with long travel suspension as to not discriminate.
From Argentat to Egletons and on to Treignac and Riders Rest. The latter part of this journey was
in the rain and by now I was wearing thin for wet and cold for the roads can not be enjoyed as
how it should be. But the stay at Riders Rest made up for it. Rob and Mandy made us feel right
at home with a beer and a warm reception. The eating and drinking and conversation lasted into
the late of night. They are very good hosts and hopefully will see us visiting them in the not
too distant future. The next day started as how the previous ended.
Gray skies and a constant drizzle. Breakfast was served and a bit lingering before setting off
for Avallon. We couldn't see much of the scenery because of the rain and so the decision was
made to change course and go a bit more west than planned and hope to ride around the worst
of the weather. As luck would have it the last few miles into Avallon was sunny and dry. We
were tired and opted for the Ibis hotel just outside of town. A shower, dinner and then bed.
Saturday promised to be a better day. Still cloudy but cool and no rain. The weather radar
showed the rain moving from West to East and the route was planned accordingly going to the
west of Troyes. It was to be a short day so we could have a bit of a walk in Reims. Tonnere,
Saint-Florentin. Aix-en-Othe, Romilly (where I saw a Sherman tank at a war memorial), Sezanne,
Epernay and finally Reims.
The Mecure hotel was about 5 minutes walk from the cathedral and across
the road from the football stadium where a match was being played. All I know is the Reims team
colours are red and white. Reims itself is a proper tourist trap and even out of season we had
to book the hotel. Dinner was at one of the many cafes/restaurants along the pedestrianised area.
My steak was done to perfection.
Photos doesn't do it justice plus there was restoration work being done.
Checking out of the hotel a fee had to be paid for parking underground and the tourist tax was
the most expensive we had paid all holiday. Not complaining just mentioning. The previous day
we noticed quite a few classic cars about on the roads and in the underground car park there was
a few beauties.
These would eventually turn up at Laon as part of their thing they do. The last day of a trip like
this is always themost depressing but also an eagerness to get home. A quick stop at Geux for
the obligatory photo next to the old pits and we press on to Laon.
Laon to Saint Quinten, to Peronne and into the Somme for a stop at Delville Wood. I have
stopped here every visit to France. There are no South African graves here. The men were
blown to pieces by the German artillery barrage. In stead the whole wood is considered a
grave site. It is quiet and peaceful for the few minutes I spend there.
From here it is a leisurely ride through the Somme past Thiepval, the Ulster memorial and
Beaumont-Hamel. From Beaumont-Hamel you join the D919 that will take you North to Arras.
From this junction a bit further down the road were it makes a crest you can see in the
distance to your left a cross that marks a grave site. It is not on the main road but a gravel
road leads you there. The men buried there all died on that terrible day. If you ever get the
chance then book yourself on a tour with Martin Pegler. I also noticed that some of the roads
in the Somme has been upgraded. Last stop Arras before we head to the tunnel. In the square
with the Patrimoine Mondail there is a fantastic little Patissier in the South East corner.
Well worth a visit.
r
And that is it. A uneventful ride home with a dirty bike and tired pillion. Overall the trip
was a success and even the not so good days was better than the best day at work. I
particularly enjoy the change of scenery as you travel and you notice that the architecture
changes from region to region. The finances worked out at 1230E plus the Reims Hotel
and the Premier Inn at Ashford for all 9 days. Biggest expense was accommodation, then food,
then fuel. But if planned a bit better you can do it cheaper but what the hell, it is a holiday.
. Makes me feel guilty for not making a similar effort to share after my tour in 2014 
. Those shots brought back great memories of the Tarn Gorge which we did in the other direction. And I never get bored of parking up and gawping at that bridge. S'funny that my son, who's studying geology, was really taken by the picture Al highlighted. Just been explaining to me how the landscape would have been formed. Fascinating.
