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My Induct came with a 50mm length of soft rubber/plastic hose that was just the right size to slip over the front and rear carbon tubes to connect them together. Bit of a fiddle, but it works.

The Pelican thread that you found is the one I used. I kept a link and I've just checked it - it seems to have all the pictures. I thought the guy who did it was an absolute star. I am a clumsy electrician and I had to buy a soldering iron small enough to do the job - my first attempt just obliterat...

...I think the Hall sensor connector is the rectangular one about four inches south of your thumb in the above photo - with two cable ties around it. I could be wrong, it's a while since I've been under there and I'm all confused with the K-bike I'm currently messing with.

Cheers
chris

There are two Hall sensors, mounted on a single backplate as one Hall sensor 'unit'. Each one feeds a signal to the Motronic, and either will do for the Acumen. The Hall sensor unit is located at the front of the engine (sorry if you know this) behind the black plastic cover. The cable from it runs ...

Might have misunderstood, but if you're after replacing the lambda sensor in the Power Commander kit, I used the following: Bosch wideband oxygen sensor LSU 4.2 7206/7366 I think variants of the above come with different cable lengths etc. but the above part was a direct equivalent - I have the addi...

Bill and Chris are fine - thanks for asking.

How much are you asking for this 11s in a shell suit?
Seriously, if it helps a sale I'll be happy to give it a once-over in the workshop if you've got half a day (I'm retired you know - got to keep mentioning it)

Cheers
chris

Yes you can pull it out - actually it comes out better if you ease it with a large flat blade screwdriver.
It is fastened to the gearbox output shaft with a wire snap ring.

The fork tube bears on an upper and lower bronze bush located inside the slider. With the forks fully extended, the tube still locates inside the lower bush, even with 'bars above the yoke'. As for the handlebar locating lugs, the shear strength offered by the M6 bolt in the lug is irrelevant and un...

We had a bike with a mystery clunk as you describe - it turned out to be the fork bushes. The bike was a later model (without the damper tubes in the legs) which has a lot more fork oil. Somebody had previously re-filled it with the lower quantity as for the earlier model. Hence lack of lubrication ...

when I was commuting and doing pretty much the same journey and riding like a pretend spitfire pilot, the light would come on between 100-110, The bike would run out of fuel at exactly 147, or so it always seemed. Based on this I reckon that, once the light comes on, it will be safe for a third as m...

Only took me six years to crack this problem... Maybe the air bleed on the reservoir cap is blocked - two of the screw holes in the cap have a small slot in them. The purpose is to allow air into the bellows - allows the bellows to expand as you wear the pads - on your hell for leather long run . If...

there's not much in there that could be rusting - the likely candidate is the bronze bushes, but there's nooooo waaaay they should be doing that.

Strip and examine is my suggestion, sorry.

Rob Found some info about Ohlins part numbers the L084 suffix on your front spring part number is just a batch number - the rest of your number is the same as mine - so you've got the standard R1100s Ohlins spring. Seems like the rest of the number is just code: http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/su...

Wittering on...
I have the spec sheets for both Ohlins here in front of me - they state the preload, length etc.
I can scan them and email them to you if you haven't got any.

Nothing to stop you making a fitting as you describe. I was just wondering whether your shock wasn't just a 'normal' ohlins, shortened - because (according to me at least) that'd let your mudguard collide with the fairing. It would be useful if you could measure the length of exposed stanchion with ...